ART + LIFE
Gothic & Lolita History
Gothic & Lolita History
by Michelle Nguyen
To a lot of Americans, the Lolita fashion movement seems to be something entirely new. But in truth, Lolita has a long history.
In 1955, Russian author Vladimir Nabokov wrote a novel in English about a man obsessed with a twelve-year-old girl. The subject enthralled readers and the book, entitled Lolita, became part of the popular lexicon. Thanks to Nabokov, the name “Lolita” is used now to describe any sexually desirable or promiscuous young girl—an innocent who is not quite uncorrupted.
However, when speaking of the fashion, Lolita has roots that stretch much farther back than 1955. The Lolita style of dress is inspired by the romantic images of the Victorian era (1837–1901) and the Edwardian era (1901–1910), or Belle Epoque, with influences stretching as far back as the Rococo movement, which reached its height under the reign of Louis XV in the 1730s.
However, the Lolita we speak of in terms of fashion differs greatly from its historic predecessors. Our Lolita lives for innocence, decadence, and a life of elegance. And she was born in the 1980s, and then coddled by her rock-god parents in the 1990s.
It was Mana, of the band Malice Mizer, who truly gave rise to the fashion. Although a man, Mana was able to dress convincingly as a beautiful Gothic Lolita female, and he is credited for helping make the style popular in Japan during the late 1990s.
Lolita truly gained a foothold in the 1990s. In the early part of the decade, visual kei—or visual style—rock was gaining popularity in Japan. The musicians in this genre were known for their artistic flair and flamboyant clothing styles. While they were developing costumes for their vibrant performances, they began incorporating elements that came to be known as Gothic Lolita, namely all dark colored clothing with innocent-looking, hyper-feminine hair and makeup. As these artists adopted elements of the style that became the predecessor of Lolita today, fans began to imitate them, and soon the on-stage styles of rock idols emerged on the street.
And that’s where Lolita stayed—at least, at first. This stage of Gothic and Lolita clothing was handmade by the wearer and worn in urban areas of Japan. Tokyo was not the only hub—the fashion was frequently seen on the streets in other cities, such as Sapporo, Osaka, Nagoya, and Fukuoka.
But the crucial factor in bringing about the evolution of Lolita fashion was the establishment of many fine Lolita brand stores in Japan. These store openings in major cities across Japan made what had been a handmade labor of love into a fashion that was accessible to all, easily bought and ready to wear.
It was then that the Lolita style truly reached its adolescence. Now, classic Gothic Lolita branched off into several new Lolita variations. At this stage, there were clear lines drawn between Sweet Lolitas (those who dressed in pastels and wore fruit- and candy-shaped jewelry to emit a cute appearance), Gothic Lolitas (the dark Lolitas who wore dark colors and typically had straight raven hair and long false eyelashes, along with dramatic makeup to present a slightly evil-yet-innocent appearance), Punk Lolitas (girls who mixed the well-established style of punk clothing and accessories with both Sweet and Gothic Lolita styles), and Aristocrat Lolitas (a subset of Gothic Lolitas who wore long, flowing skirts, capes, mantles, and sleeves to give off an air of dark aristocracy).
Today, Lolita continues to find love in Japan, and its popularity has spread around the globe. Thanks to the Internet, fashionistas from around the world can keep up with the current trends of Japanese brands, as well as find seamstresses willing to make custom clothing commissions. Fans of the style can connect to other fans via online forums. And because of this increased communication, Lolitas all over the world have been able to arrange gatherings, going out for tea, visiting amusement parks, or organizing photo shoots with those who have similar interest.
In the immortal words of Metamorphose’s creator Kuniko Kato, “Go! Go! Lolita-chan!”
Lolita Name Brands
Although not a comprehensive listing, here are some of the major players that Lolita fans worldwide watch for trends and covet for their own.
Moi-même-Moitié
Mana invented his own brand of Gothic Lolita clothing in 1999, Moi-même-Moitié, which is still considered one of the most elite (and most expensive) Lolita brands. When he created his brand, Mana coined the terms Elegant Gothic Lolita (EGL) and Elegant Gothic Aristocrat (EGA). Mana’s brand deals strictly with gothic and aristocratic Lolita clothing, accessories, and makeup.
Mana invented his own brand of Gothic Lolita clothing in 1999, Moi-même-Moitié, which is still considered one of the most elite (and most expensive) Lolita brands. When he created his brand, Mana coined the terms Elegant Gothic Lolita (EGL) and Elegant Gothic Aristocrat (EGA). Mana’s brand deals strictly with gothic and aristocratic Lolita clothing, accessories, and makeup.
The official website is located at http://www.rakuten.co.jp/moi-meme-moitie/
Metamorphose
A talented woman named Kuniko Kato started Metamorphose in a small shop in Kyoto in 1997. By 2000, branches were all over Japan. This brand specializes in Retro and Sweet Lolita styles, and the punkma bear and rabbit combo have adorned the clothes since the beginning. The Metamorphose website has an English section for viewing and ordering clothing.
A talented woman named Kuniko Kato started Metamorphose in a small shop in Kyoto in 1997. By 2000, branches were all over Japan. This brand specializes in Retro and Sweet Lolita styles, and the punkma bear and rabbit combo have adorned the clothes since the beginning. The Metamorphose website has an English section for viewing and ordering clothing.
The official website is located at http://www.metamorphose.gr.jp/english/
BABY, THE STARS SHINE BRIGHT
Husband-and-wife team Akinori and Fumiyo Isobe began this brand in 1988 with a store in Shibuya, taking the name from an album by the band Everything But the Girl. BABY, THE STARS SHINE BRIGHT (often abbreviated BTSSB) offers delicate Sweet Lolita styles, as well as styles to suit a subcategory of lolita called “Pirate Lolita.” BTSSB has a shop in Paris and plans to expand into more international markets soon.
The official website is located at http://www.babyssb.co.jp/
Husband-and-wife team Akinori and Fumiyo Isobe began this brand in 1988 with a store in Shibuya, taking the name from an album by the band Everything But the Girl. BABY, THE STARS SHINE BRIGHT (often abbreviated BTSSB) offers delicate Sweet Lolita styles, as well as styles to suit a subcategory of lolita called “Pirate Lolita.” BTSSB has a shop in Paris and plans to expand into more international markets soon.
The official website is located at http://www.babyssb.co.jp/
Takemoto Novala
Although not an official “brand,” Takemoto Novala is of note to Lolitas for his collaborations on projects with various designers. Novala’s literary works also are important to Lolitas. He wrote a series of essays in the 1990s dealing with the lifestyle and priorities of young maidens. These essays, collected into a volume called Soleilnuit: For Becoming a Proper Young Lady, helped define Lolita for a whole generation.
His official website is called NOVALA BOX at www.novala.net
To a lot of Americans, the Lolita fashion movement seems to be something entirely new. But in truth, Lolita has a long history.
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yuchi goth youre no goth girl you cant be a lolita to be a lolita you have to wear a petticoat and have hime cut hair
MISSSIXTYNO1PITATENFAN
2008-11-09 05:14:59
yuchi goth its gothic lolita not goth lolita thats just some term idiots use i f you don't understand don't bother looking at it
MISSSIXTYNO1PITATENFAN
2008-11-09 05:11:50
Interesting too!
GAARALOVER92
2008-02-11 15:13:43
I have to check out those websites listed, they look as though they have very nice stuff! Lolita fashion definitely has a longer history than most people think it does.
GAARALOVER92
2008-02-11 15:13:12
Awesome article !
2008-02-06 12:09:48
ummm there is the word lolita and a term lolita not a name. I prefer calling my self the term but this is a great article!
SAKURALOLI
2008-01-31 13:23:34
I like how the pot thing was left out for Novela.
KURONEKOHIME
2008-01-31 12:11:48
I agree with YUICHIGOTH Great sites also...I shop there alot!!
BLOODRAIN789
2008-01-23 16:11:00
Great history of goth lolita. ^__^
YUICHIGOTH
2008-01-23 13:19:58
Very interesting!!
THEMISCHIEVOUSFOX
2008-01-16 17:16:32